little critters tunnel up to 200 feet per day and eat constantly. Moles will
starve in a few hours if not fed, so they are constantly on the look-out for
out some of my super solutions to moles HERE
Their presence indicates good, fertile soil. Their burrowing aerates the soil,
and carries surface soil and water down to the subsoil. With their voracious
appetite, they can consume up to 200 sawfly cocoons
Moles can literally destroy a lawn or garden overnight with their digging. They
particularly like seeded areas, recently excavated areas or those areas next to
rocks, borders, and beds.
insects, particularly grubs, and worms. They can consume their body weight in
food each day.
raised ridges, three to five inches wide, crisscross the lawn and garden in a
zig-zag manner. Huge mounds of soil with no entrance holes magically appear out
of nowhere. Mole tunneling destroys grass/plant roots because anything in the
ridge areas is uprooted and therefore, dries out quickly. Also, mice and voles
use the runs to dine on your delectable plants.
- Without an ample food supply, moles soon look
for food elsewhere. So get rid of their food—soil insects. Apply a Milky
Spore disease (Bacillus popillioe), Diazinon, or Merit® grub control
at the recommended rate. There are a couple of problems with this method:
(1) it takes about a year to work, and in the meantime (2) as their food
supply dwindles, moles dig even more to find food. So the digging gets worse
before it gets better.
- Use one of the mole baits containing zinc
phosphide for quick, easy and effective chemical mole control.
- Liberally apply one of the commercial repellents, like my
liquid Mole Repellent, for fast, easy and safe control.
Leave the burrows raised and add
paradichlorobenzene (mothball) flakes or the fungicide thiram to the runs
every six feet.
- Daffodils, spurge, and castor bean plants,
strategically placed in your garden, all act as mole repellents.
- Stink them out of house and home by applying
- All Purpose
- 1 cup of ammonia,
- ½ cup of dish soap,
- ¼ cup of castor oil, and
- ½ cup of urine in a 20 gallon hose-end
- Saturate the runs, and water in well.
- Stick numerous tin windmills, similar to
children's toy pin wheels, or “Mole Chasers” into the ground. The
vibrations from the rotary motion underground drive them crazy. The wind
whistling over the tops of pop bottles does the same thing.
- The blood of moles does not clot—they bleed
to death even from slight wounds, and avoid being scratched. So push small
thorny twigs (raspberry, rose, barberry) down into the runs. Broken glass,
kerosene, and human hair will also work.
- Used kitty letter is effective in signaling
that predators are lurking about in the area.
- Trapping, using an old fashioned
spring-activated harpoon, a choker loop trap, or a scissors-type trap can
also be effective. The best time to trap is in the early spring when the
first burrows are seen or after the first fall rains. Find active burrows by
rolling or tamping down the ridges, and watch for those that are raised
again. These are the ones where the traps should be set. If a trap is not
sprung in 2 days, remove and relocate it.